GLOSSARY

Abstract: refers to a design in the abstract style, i.e. one that represents a general form and not an accurate representation of a subject.

Accordion: 1x1 rib knit alternating with a 2x2 rib.

Acrylic coated: A fabric which has been coated, generally on the back, with acrylic resin to make it waterproof or downproof.

Albatross: A lightweight, plain weave fabric traditionally of wool or wool blends with a napped, fleecy surface . So named because the texture resembles the breast of an albatross. Usually light in color- used in infant's wear , sleep wear.

Alencon lace:A needlepoint lace on a fine net ground characterized by a heavy thread (cordonnet) outlining the design. Usually machine made but sometimes the cordonnet is inserted by hand.

Alligator skin: A design, printed or embossed, that suggests the characteristic texture of an alligator.

Allover lace: general term for a wide lace in which the pattern covers the full width of the fabric . It is generally sold and cut in the same way as non lace fabrics.

Animal skin: refers to a design which suggests the skin of an animal . Leopard, tiger, zebra and giraffe are popular motifs.

Anti bacterial: finish that makes a fabric resistant to the growth of bacteria.

Anti Pill: A finish applied to fleece which involves shearing the surface so that the fabric is less likely to pill

Antique Satin: a reversible fabric - one side looks like satin and the other side like shantung. It often has a dark warp which enhances the texture. Often used for draperies.

Antique Taffeta: A stiff plain weave fabric , often iridescent, with a slubbed weft. May be of silk or synthetics.

Antron: brand of nylon fiber trademarked by the Du Pont Co.

Argentan lace: a needlepoint lace on a net ground similar to alencon lace but on a larger net and without the cordonnet outline thread of alencon.

Argyle: A design of various colored diamond shaped blocks on a single colored ground, usually crossed by lines in a diamond shape. Popular in sweaters and hosiery.

Art/Embroidery linen: a balanced plain weave fabric usually of linen or linen/cotton . It is made from smooth round yarns (not flattened by calendering) . Used as a base for embroidered table linen, pillowcases, also in drapes, slipcovers and some apparel. Also called embroidery crash.

Astrakhan: a thick woven or knitted cloth often of wool with a surface of loops or curls, imitating the coat of an Astrakhan lamb. Also called poodle cloth. Used for coats and trimming.

Atlas: A warp knit fabric in which a set of yarns shifts diagonally one wale per course for several courses , then returns to the original position.

Awning stripe: 1. a design of wide even stripes 2. a heavy canvas fabric with this design. May be yarn dyed or printed.

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Balanced Stripes: a design of stripes that are even in width and spacing.

Bandanna: a print design characterized by white or brightly colored motifs on a dark or bright ground, most often red or navy. Done by discharge or resist printing but originally done in India by tie dyeing. 2. a fabric, usually cotton with such a design.

Barathea: An indistinct twill or broken rib- usually a twilled hopsack weave- with a fine textured ,slightly pebbled surface . Often of silk or silk blended with wool, Used for neckties, women's fine suits and coats men's and women's evening wear.

Bark Cloth: Originally referred to fabric made from the bark of trees. Now the term is used to describe fabric with a surface texture resembling tree bark.

Barrier fabric: fabrics that are barriers to dust , dust mites and associated allergens.

Basket stitch: A knit construction with mostly purl loops in the pattern courses to give a basket weave look

Basket weave/Hopsack: A variation of plain weave in which 2 or more yarns in both the warp and weft are woven side by side to resemble a basket.

Batik: a traditional Indonesian dyeing process in which portions of fabric are coated with wax and therefore resist the dye. The process can be repeated to achieve multi-color designs. Fabric usually has a veined appearance where the dye has gone through the cracks in the wax.

Batiste: 1. A sheer, fine, soft, light weight, plain weave fabric usually of combed cotton or polyester/cotton. It often has lengthwise streaks due to the use of 2 ply yarns. Used for shirts blouses dresses nightwear and lingerie. 2. A lightweight smooth all wool fabric. 3.A sheer silk fabric.

Beaded: Referring to a fabric embellished with beads.

Beading lace: a machine made lace with a row of openwork holes designed for the insertion of a decorative ribbon.

Beaver Cloth: a high quality, heavy, soft wool cloth with a deep, smooth nap. Used in overcoats.

Bedford Cord: a woven fabric constructed to show pronounced rounded cords in the warp direction with sunken lines between them. Used in trousers, uniforms, hats, upholstery.

Beetled: a finishing process in which a fabric usually linen or cotton is pounded to produce a hard flat surface with a sheen.

Bemberg: brand of cupramonium rayon.

Bengaline: a durable plain weave fabric characterized by widthwise cords formed by using fine warp yarns and course weft yarns, Used in dresses, coats, suits, ribbons, draperies.

Binche lace: A lace in which the lace motifs are appliquéd to a machine made net ground. Originally made in Binche Belgium.

Birdseye: 1. a general term for a fabric with a surface texture of small, uniform spots that suggest bird's eyes. Can be woven or knit. 2 A design that suggests a bird's eyes.

Blanket plaid: a large vividly colored plaid design such as those often found on blankets.

Bleached: Chemical treatment to remove impurities and whiten the fabric. It can be done either in preparation for dyeing and finishing or to obtain clean whites in finished fabric.

Blitz: A light to medium weight woven fabric with a filament warp and spun weft. Often has a very fine crosswise rib. Common blends are acetate/rayon and polyester/rayon.

Block printed: A hand printing method using wood, metal, or linoleum blocks. The design is carved on the blocks , one block for each color. The dye is applied to the block which is pressed or hammered against the fabric.

Blotch print: Refers to a print in which a large area of uniform color is printed. The printed ground is referred to as the blotch.

Bobbin lace: a handmade lace using a pillow to hold pins around which thread is intertwined. Bobbins are used to hold and feed the thread. Also called pillow lace or bobbinet.

Boiled Wool: a wool or wool blend fabric, woven or knitted which has been given a course, crepey texture by heavy felting or by putting it in a high temperature bath.

Bonded: A fabric composed of 2 or more layers joined together with an adhesive ,resin, foam, or fusible membrane.

Border: a design placed along the edge of the fabric or engineered in such a way that it will fall on the edge of the finished product. Border designs are frequently used in skirts and dresses.

Botanical: referring to designs dominated by motifs depicting plant life.

Boucle 1.a fancy yarn with an irregular pattern of curls and loops 2. A fabric made from boucle yarn.

Bourdon lace: A machine made lace on a mesh ground usually in a scroll design outlined with a heavy cord.

Bourette: a fancy plied yarn with nubs and knots of another color.

Bourrelet: A double knit fabric with a rippled , corded texture running horizontally.

Breathable coated: Refers to a coating that repels water but allows water vapor (thus perspiration) to pass through, allowing garments to be comfortable and waterproof . Used in garments for active wear and winter sports.

Breton lace: Lace embroidered on an open net with heavy often brightly colored yarn. May be made by hand or machine. Said to have originated in the Breton region of France.

Broadcloth: A fine tightly woven plain weave fabric with a faint rib . Usually of cotton or cotton blend but can be of any fiber. Frequently used in men's shirts. 2. a fine soft woven wool fabric, plain or twill weave, with a smooth napped face.

Brocade: A heavy rich- looking jacquard fabric with contrasting surfaces or a multicolor design . Used in upholstery , draperies evening wear.

Brocatelle a jacquard fabric similar to brocade with the design in a raised appearance from being formed with a satin or twill weave. Used in draperies and upholstery.

Broken twill: A general term for twill weave fabrics in which the twill line changes direction.

Brushed/Napped: A finishing process to raise a nap on surface of the fabric using wire brushes or other abrasive materials.

Brushstroke: Refers to a print style in which color looks as if it had been applied with a brush.

Brussels lace: May be a bobbin or needlepoint lace usually on a machine made ground. Sometimes designs are appliquéd on the ground. As Brussels Belgium is important in the history of lace-making, many different types of lace are called Brussels lace.

Buckram: A stiff , open weave, coarse fabric often used as an interlining to give a garment shape. Also used in hats, bookbinding.

Buckskin: A heavy satin weave fabric, often of fine Merino wool, with a smooth face

Buffalo check: a bold check pattern with blocks of 2 or 3 contrasting colors. Often red and black in a twill weave.

Bunting: A plain, drapey, loosely woven fabric most often used for flags and decoration. Also called banner cloth.

Burlap/Hessian: A coarse open fabric made of jute used for upholstery lining and bagging . When dyed or printed it is used in drapery, wall coverings, upholstery.

Burn out: A fabric made of 2 fibers then printed with a chemical that dissolves one of the fibers thus creating a design .Often done on velvet.

Butcher's Linen: A strong, heavy, plain weave linen fabric with uneven, thick and thin yarns in both warp and weft - often used in tablecloths and aprons.

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