 |
GLOSSARIO
Cable stitch:
A knit fabric stitch that produces a design that looks like a heavy
cord- common in sweaters and hosiery.
Calendered:
A flat, smooth, glossy finish applied to the fabric by passing it
through heavy rollers under pressure and usually heat. Cire, chintz,
moire, & glazing are examples of calendered finishes.
Calico: A
light weight, plain weave fabric usually cotton or cotton blend
typically printed with small, all over, brightly colored designs.
Used frequently in aprons, quilts & curtains.
Cambric:
A plain weave, traditionally light weight cotton fabric with a luster
on the surface . Used for handkerchiefs underwear, shirts, aprons
, tablecloths.
Candlewick: A
tufted pile fabric with a fuzzy surface that looks like chenille
. It is made by looping a heavy plied yarn on a muslin base then
cutting the loops. Used for bedspreads, robes, draperies.
Canton flannel:
A heavy, warm, strong cotton or cotton blend fabric with a twill
face and a brushed back . Used for nightwear, underwear, gloves,
linings. Originally produced in Canton China.
Canvas /Duck:
A strong, firm, tightly woven, durable fabric usually of cotton
but sometimes of linen, hemp or other fibers. It is usually plain
weave but sometimes with a crosswise rib. It is produced in a variety
of weights & used in a variety of products such as tents, awnings,
sails, upholstery, footwear, jackets, trousers.
Cape net: a
stiff heavy net which can be shaped when wet and holds that shape
when dried . Used for hats.
Carded: A
yarn in which the fibers have been partially straightened and cleaned
prior to spinning. The yarn is generally coarser and more uneven
than a combed yarn.
Cardigan -full:
A variation of a 1x1 rib stitch with 2 sets of needles There is
alternate knitting and tucking on one course then tucking and knitting
on the next course. The fabric has the same look on both sides as
every wale on both sides has both a held loop and a tuck loop. Also
called polka rib.
Cardigan- half:
A variation of a 1x1 rib stitch with knitting & tucking in alternate
courses on one set of needles. The construction on the back is the
reverse of the face . Also called royal rib.
Casement cloth:
a general term for sheer, lightweight, open weave fabrics used for
curtains and backing for heavy drapery.
Cationic:
A type of dye used on acrylic or on modified polyester or modified
nylon yarn . Often used to achieve cross dyed effects: Cationic
dyeable yarn is woven in a pattern with regular yarn in the same
fabric. The pattern becomes visible by dyeing the fabric in 2 baths,
one for each of the types of yarn.
Cavalry twill: A
sturdy woven fabric with a steep pronounced double twill line .
Often of cotton or wool but may be any fiber.
Challis:
a soft, lightweight, plain weave fabric with good drape. Often used
for printed dresses and skirts. Most commonly wool or rayon but
may be of cotton or other spun fibers.
Chambray: A
lightweight, plain weave fabric, with a colored warp and white weft
. Usually plain but may be in stripes, checks, or other patterns.
Often used in shirts, dresses children's clothes.
Chameleon:
a 3 tone effect that changes with the angle of view . It is achieved
by using a warp yarn of one color and double weft yarns of 2 different
colors. It is often found in taffetas , poplins or failles of silk
or made made filament yarns
Chamois-like: a hand suggesting
the soft pliable leather from the skin of the chamois goat.
Chantilly lace:
A bobbin lace on a fine net ground characterized by delicate motifs
of scrolls, vines, branches, and flowers outlined by a flat (cordonnet)
yarn. Often in black. Originally made in Chantilly France.
Charmeuse:
A soft lightweight woven satin fabric with good drape. It is made
with high twist yarns, has a semi-lustrous face and a dull back
. Often used for blouses, intimate apparel.
Check:
a small pattern of squares or rectangles. It may be printed, yarn
dyed , cross dyed or woven into the fabric ( as a dobby or jacquard).
Cheesecloth:
see Gauze/Cheesecloth.
Chenille: 1.
A yarn with fuzzy pile protruding from all sides . It has a velvety
caterpillar -like appearance . ( The term chenille is derived from
the French word for caterpillar) 2. A fabric made with chenille
yarn.
Cheviot: 1.A
rough surfaced fabric of wool with a heavy nap. Used for coating.
2. A loosely woven tweed fabric with a shaggy texture . Cheviot
was originally made from the wool of the cheviot sheep in the hills
at the bordering England and Scotland.
Chevron .
a design which incorporates herringbone elements of zigzag stripes
or joined V's
Chiffon: A
lightweight , sheer, plain weave fabric with a dull surface, a soft
hand , and good drape. It is made with fine high twisted yarns and
has an even or close to even number of threads per inch in the warp
and weft. Originally made in silk but now found in polyester and
other man-made filament yarns. Used in dresses blouses, scarves,
veils.
Children's:
refers to designs suitable for the children's market.
Chinchilla:
A thick, heavy, pile fabric with surface curls or nubs, originally
made to suggest chinchilla fur . It is often double faced. It may
be woven or knit and is often used as coating.
Chino: a
sturdy, medium weight, twill fabric usually of cotton or a cotton
blend. It has often been used for summer weight military uniforms,
sportswear and work clothes. It is often found in khaki and tan
colors.
Chinoiserie:
a old Chinese decorative style still used in textiles.
Chintz: 1.
A glazed solid or printed fabric usually of cotton or a cotton blend
2. A plain weave fabric, usually cotton, with a multicolor print
which may or may not be glazed. If it is unglazed it is called cretonne.
Chirimen:
a Japanese term describing a dull crepe fabric made with a course
yarn. Originally of silk but now found in man made filaments such
as polyester.
Circular knit: refers
to fabrics knit on a circular knitting machine, i.e. one which has
its needles arranged in a circle thus producing the fabric in tubular
form . The fabrics may be sold tubular or slit and sold open width.
A circular knitting machine may be used to produce full width fabrics
or narrow shaped components such as for hosiery.
Cire: a
finishing process that produces a high gloss on the surface on the
fabric by passing it through heavy rollers (calendering) . Fabrics
made of thermoplastic fibers like nylon or polyester are cired by
calendering with heat and pressure alone. Other fabrics like rayons
or silks are calendered with wax or other compounds.
Clip dot /Clip spot:
a design effect created on a woven fabric by the use of extra yarns
which are woven into the fabric at a certain spot then allowed to
float over the fabric to the next spot. The float threads are later
trimmed but often are allowed to protrude from the surface of the
fabric as part of the design.
Cloque/ Blister fabric: A
general term to describe fabrics with a blister (pucker) on the
surface. The blister may be created by several different methods
such as printing with caustic soda or other chemicals, by weaving
together yarns under different tension, or by weaving together yarns
with different shrinkage properties.
Cluny lace:
A heavy bobbin lace using thick yarns usually of cotton or linen.
Most often done in geometric patterns . Used for curtains doilies
and trim for apparel.
Coarse:
having thick yarns.
Coated:
refers to the application of material such as plastic resin, wax,
oil, varnish or lacquer to the surface of the fabric . Application
methods include dipping, spraying, brushing, calendering or knife
coating . Coating is often applied to make a fabric water repellent
or waterproof but may be done simply to alter the hand or appearance
of the fabric. Polyurethane, acrylic and PVC resins are common types
of coating.
Combed:
refers to a process in the manufacture of cotton and other staple
yarns. The fiber is combed to remove foreign matter and the shorter,
undesirable fibers, leaving longer, more desirable fibers that become
straightened & aligned in parallel before spinning into yarn.
Combed yarns are finer, cleaner and more even than those that are
not combed.
Compact:
refers to a tight, dense fabric with a firm hand.
Conversational:
whimsical designs or designs with a theme.
Cool:
a smooth, slick, hand generally associated with synthetics.
Coolmax brand: A
Du Pont brand of polyester with good wicking qualities allowing
for better moisture evaporation . Used in activewear.
Corded:
1. a fabric with a surface rib effect resulting from the use of
a heavier or plied yarn together with finer yarns. 2. A yarn made
from two or more finer yarns twisted together.
Cordura brand: A Du Pont brand
of air textured nylon yarn. Used in luggage and outerwear.
Corduroy:
A strong, durable, woven fabric characterized by vertical cut pile
stripes or cords with a velvet- like nap. Corduroy is classified
by the number of wales or cords to the inch. It is traditionally
of cotton but may be cotton blends or other fibers as well. It is
common in men's women's and children's apparel especially trousers.
Cotton-like: refers
to a fabric that feels like cotton.
Covert:
a medium to heavy twill fabric with a contrast in color between
the twill line and the ground . Usually has a mottled or flecked
appearance caused by using a warp yarn with 2 or more colors twisted
together. The filling generally is of a single color.
Crash: A
coarse woven fabric with a rough surface, made with thick uneven
yarns. Used for table linens , draperies, backings.
Crepe:
A fabric characterized by an all over crinkled, pebbly, or puckered
surface. The appearance may be a result of the use of high twist
yarns , embossing , chemical treatment or a crepe weave.
Crepe-back satin:
A two faced fabric in which one side is crepe and the other satin.
Also called satin-back crepe.
Crepe de chine:
A lightweight plain weave fabric usually of silk or man made filament
yarns with a slight crepe texture produces by using high twist yarns
. Used in blouses and dresses.
Crepey: Refers
to a fabric with a pebble like texture.
Crepon/Yoryu: a
fabric with a pleat-like crinkle effect in the warp ( lengthwise)
direction of the fabric, made with high twist yarns.
Cretonne:
A plain weave fabric, usually cotton, with a neutral ground and
brightly colored floral designs, similar to chintz but with a dull
finish and sometimes heavier. Used for draperies and upholstery.
Crewel:
a type of embroidery using a loosely twisted 2 ply worsted yarn.
Crinkled:
an uneven, wrinkle, or puckered effect on the fabric surface which
can be created by a variety of mechanical or chemical finishes,
or through the use of high twist yarns.
Crinoline: A
stiff, open weave fabric, usually heavily sized. Used mainly as
lining or interlining.
Crisp: describes
fabrics with a smooth, clean surface, good body, and a relatively
firm hand which may make noise when rustled.
Crochet lace:
Lace handmade with a crochet hook usually medallion patterns on
a mesh ground.
Cross cut:
refers to a corduroy fabric which has the pile cut in a weftwise
direction, forming squares or rectangles on the surface.
Cross dyed: A
method of coloring fabric made with strategically placed yarns of
2 or more different fibers. A pre-planned effect becomes visible
by dyeing the fabric in different dye baths, one for each of the
types of yarn. For example a predominately rayon fabric may have
a polyester yarn woven into it in a stripe pattern then dyed in
a bath to which only the rayon is sensitive. The polyester stripe
will be made to appear since it remains undyed. The stripe may then
be colored by dyeing it again in a bath of a different color to
which only the polyester is sensitive. Heather effects may be achieved
by mixing more than one fiber in a single yarn then cross dyeing.
Cross dyed & overprinted: a
cross dyed fabric which has also had a design printed on it.
Crushed:
a finish that creates a planned irregular disturbance on the surface
of the fabric, usually by mechanical means.
Cut Velvet:
jacquard fabric consisting of a velvet design on a plain ground.
Also called beaded velvet. Used in evening wear and home furnishings.
|
|
