Glossary - d/e/f/g/h

Dacron: Du Pont brand of polyester fiber.

Damask: A firm, reversible jacquard weave fabric. Used in table linen, upholstery, draperies evening wear. Commonly made of cotton linen silk or rayon or blends of these fibers.

Deco: refers to designs which suggest the Art Deco style of the 20's and 30's, characterized by bold outlines and streamlined shapes.

Delicate: referring to a fine, light hand with good drape.

Denim: a firm 2/1 or 3/1 right hand twill usually with a colored warp and white or natural weft . Commonly made of cotton or cotton blends in a variety of weights.

Diamond: referring to designs dominated by diamond shapes.

Dimity: A lightweight, sheer, plain weave fabric characterized by lengthwise ribs. Sometimes also with crosswise ribs forming a check. Commonly used for curtains, aprons.

Discharge printed: A dyed fabric is printed with a chemical paste that bleaches out or "discharges" the color to allow white patterns on a dyed ground. By adding a dye to the paste that is not affected by the chemical it is possible to replace the discharged ground color with another color.

Distressed: Describes a finish that disturbs the surface of the fabric, giving it a used, beaten, or uneven appearance. Often done through sand or stone washing after the fabric has been pigment dyed.

District check: A category of small check designs, sometimes with contrasting overplaids, originally of Scottish origin. Glen plaids are part of this category.

Dobby: 1. a fabric with small, repeating geometric patterns woven into the surface. 2. An attachment to a loom which controls the harness allowing the weaving of these geometric patterns.

Doeskin: a soft fabric with a low, napped finish on one side.

Donegal: a tweed fabric with thick colored slubs or nubs . Originally a hand-woven woolen fabric made in Donegal Ireland.

Dope/solution dyed: manufactured fibers which have been colored by dyeing the polymer solution before it is extruded & spun into yarn.

Dot: a design dominated by circular spots, which may be of any size, printed or woven into the fabric. Small dots are often called pin dots; medium to large dots may be referred to as aspirin dots, coin dots or polka dots.

Dotted swiss: a sheer fabric often a lawn or batiste, usually of cotton or cotton blend, with a small dot pattern. The dots are usually woven into the fabric but may be flocked or printed . Used for curtains, children's clothes, dresses.

Double cloth: a fabric consisting of 2 layers woven together on the same loom . The fabrics may be held together with binder threads or interwoven . The 2 layers often are of different patterns, colors or weaves . Used for coatings, sportswear, blankets, upholstery.

Double face: A reversible 2 layer fabric, usually with a different color or pattern on each side. Double face is usually a double cloth but some reversible bonded fabrics may be referred to as double face.

Double knit: a weft knit, double layered fabric produced on a machine with 2 sets of needles. Double knits are thicker have more body and are more stable than single knits. As they curl, sag, and shrink less than single knits , they are more suitable for sportswear and tailored garments. They usually are reversible.

Doupioni: 1 the irregular, uneven, rough silk taken from double cocoons or interlocked cocoons which are reeled together. 2. fabrics with characteristic slubs made from doupioni silk or made to imitate doupioni silk.

Downproof: A fabric which resists the penetration of down. The fabric may be closely woven to be downproof by nature or may be cired or coated to make it downproof.

Drapey: refers to a fabric with good drape, that is, one that is supple and falls easily into graceful folds when hung or tailored.

Drill: a strong, medium to heavy weight 2x1 or 3x1 warp faced twill usually of cotton. It is similar to denim but drill is usually piece dyed.

Drop stitch: refers to a knit fabric with an open stripe design at set intervals made by removing some of the needles.

Dry: refers to a fabric that feels lacking in surface moisture or natural lubrication . Cottons are often said to feel dry.

Duchesse lace: A guipure lace characterized by floral and leaf designs with very little ground . Heavier threads are intertwined to give raised texture. Used in bridal veils and gowns.

Duck: see Canvas/ Duck.

Dull: refers to fabric with little or no luster on the surface.

Duvetyn: medium to heavy weight twill fabric with a soft, short nap covering the weave. It has a sueded, velvety hand. Originally made of wool or wool blends but may be of cotton or other fibers . Used in suits, coats, millinery.

Dyed & overprinted: refers to fabrics which have been first piece dyed, then printed in colors that are darker than the dyed ground.

Easy Care: refers to fabrics which are restored to their original appearance after laundering with little or no ironing. Generally such fabrics can be machine washed and tumble dried.

Egyptian cotton: Cotton from Egypt characterized by its strong, fine, long and lustrous fibers.

Elysian: a thick, heavy, usually woolen fabric with a deep nap that forms a diagonal or ripple pattern on the surface. Used for coatings.

Embossed: fabric with a raised design that has been engraved on a metal cylinder then impressed on the fabric with heat and pressure.

Embroidered: a fabric decorated with needlework stitching of yarn or thread. May be done by hand or machine.

Embroidery linen: see Art/Embroidery Linen.

End & end: A plain weave fabric with a warp yarn of one color alternating with a warp yarn of white or a second color. Often the weft yarns alternate with the same 2 colors forming a mini check design. Used most commonly in shirtings.

Enzyme washed: refers to the process of washing with a cellulase enzyme -one which attacks the cellulose in the fabric- giving it a used, worn appearance and a desirable soft hand . The effect is similar to stone washing but is less damaging to the fabric. It is sometimes called bio-washing. Done commonly with denim or other cottons and fabrics of lyocell.

Ethnic: refers to designs with elements suggesting the culture or traditional designs of a particular group of people.

Eyelash: a fabric with clipped yarn on the surface suggesting eyelashes.

Eyelet: a fabric decorated with cut out areas surrounded by stitching. Used for dresses, blouses, children's apparel, curtains.

Faconne: a fabric with small scattered motifs usually jacquard but sometimes burn out.

Faggoting: a openwork stripe effect with connecting threads across the open area that create a ladder effect.

Faille: a plain weave fabric characterized by a narrow, crosswise rib which is usually the result of a fine warp yarn crossed with a heavier weft yarn. Most commonly made with filament yarns but can be from a variety of fibers and weights. It usually has a soft hand and a light luster with good body and drape.

Faux fur: a pile fabric made to simulate animal fur. May be woven or knit in a variety of fibers although acrylic and modacrylic are most common.

Faux leather: a fabric made to imitate animal leather . Often a polyurethane laminate.

Faux linen: a fabric made with slubbed yarns to imitate linen. Usually inexpensive, easy care fabrics.

Faux shearling: fabrics made to imitate shearling- the pelt of a sheep with the wool in place.

Faux silk: a fabric of manufactured fiber, most commonly polyester , with good drape, luster and a soft hand to imitate silk.

Faux suede: see Suede cloth/Faux suede.

Felt: 1 a nonwoven fabric made directly from fibers bound together with heat, moisture and mechanical pressure . Usually some wool or animal hair is used. 2. a woven fabric that has been subjected to a heavy fulling process which compresses and shrinks the fabric through heat and pressure hiding the weave and entangling the fibers.

Fiberfill: fiber batting used as a backing in a quilted fabric or in a sandwich with other fabrics . Used in outerwear, bedspreads.

Fibrillated: a finish which causes tiny fibrils or fibrous elements to be spilt from the fibers and protrude from the surface of the fabric. Results in a frosted, hazy, laundered appearance and a soft hand. Common on lyocell fabrics.

Figured Velvet: a velvet fabric with a design in relief created by cutting or pressing of the pile..

Firm: refers to a fabric with a relatively solid, compact texture, good body and reduced drape.

Fishnet: a wide, coarse, relatively heavy mesh used in apparel and trimming.

Flame resistant: refers to a fabric which will burn only when the source of the flame remains lit, and will quickly self extinguish when the source is removed. Standards for flame resistance are generally set according to the end use of the fabric. Flame resistance may be the result of the nature of the fiber or of a chemical finish put on the fabric.

Flame Stitch: A zig zag design that suggests a flame.
Flannel: a light to medium weight woven fabric with a soft, slightly napped surface . Expensive flannels of wool and wool blends are usually napped and fulled whereas less expensive flannels of cotton and other fibers are usually just napped.

Flannelette: a lightweight fabric usually of cotton with a nap on one side.

Flat screen printed: In screen printing a separate screen is created for each color . The open mesh part of the screen corresponds to the area to be printed in that color. The areas where color is not to pass through are blocked. Dye paste is forced through the open mesh area with a squeegee. The fabric is then moved or the screen replaced to allow printing of the next color. In flat screen printing the screens are in the form of flat panels, the width of which is the same as the repeat of the pattern. Flat screen printing allows for greater flexibility than rotary printing as the panel size can often be adjusted to various repeat sizes.

Fleece: a fabric with a thick, soft nap or pile resembling sheep's wool. Commonly a knit which has been brushed and sheared but may be woven.

Flocked: a method of applying short fibers rather than color to the entire surface of the fabric . The fabric may be printed with an adhesive and the fiber dusted, onto it ,or the fibers may be contained in the adhesive or the fibers may be applied electrostatically to hold them erect.

Flock printed: a method of printing resulting in short fibers, rather than color, being applied in a design to the surface of the fabric . The fabric may be printed with an adhesive and the fiber dusted onto it, or the fibers may be contained in the adhesive, or the fibers may be applied electrostatically to hold them erect.

Floral: refers to design motifs dominated by flowers.

Foam laminated: a layer of foam usually polyurethane, PVC or latex is bonded to the fabric with adhesive or fused to the fabric with heat. Generally results in a "breathable" fabric. Used for footwear , outerwear and carpet backings.

Foulard: 1. A lightweight, lustrous, soft 2x2 twill fabric usually found printed . Used in neckties scarves dresses. 2. small all over geometric print design usually on a plain solid ground typical of those found on neckties.

French terry: a knit jersey with loops on one side. Sometimes napped to make fleece.

Frieze: A pile fabric with the loops left uncut . Usually the loops are sheared to various heights to form a pattern. Used widely for upholstery and slipcovers.

Fuji: A lightweight, plain weave fabric originally of silk but now usually of polyester bicomponent yarn which gives the appearance of a subtle texture on the surface . Used in blouses, dresses.

Fujiette: a medium weight fabric with a filament yarn warp and a spun yarn weft . Usually it has a fine crosswise rib. Commonly found in rayon and blends of acetate and rayon . Used in blouses, dresses.

Fulled: see Milled/Fulled.

Fusibles: refers to a fabric, usually a nonwoven, that can be bonded to another fabric with heat and pressure . Used as interlinings to give body and shape to a fabric.

Gabardine: a tightly woven durable twill, usually 2x2 right handed, with a distinct twill line. Common used in men's and women's trousers, rainwear and a variety of other uses.

Galatea: a durable, warp faced, left handed twill fabric often found in white and stripes . Used in children's wear, uniforms.

Galloon lace.

Gauze/Cheesecloth: A loosely woven, thin, sheer, plain weave fabric usually cotton.

Geometric: refers to designs dominated by relatively simple, clearly defined geometric shapes.

Georgette: a lightweight, plain weave, crepe fabric with a pebbly texture and slightly raspy hand. Uses high twist yarns which alternate between S and Z twist every thread or 2 in both warp and weft . Used for blouses, dresses.

Gingham: light to medium weight, plain weave fabric. It is usually a cotton or cotton blend yarn dye in a color and white or 2 color check design.

Glazed: a finish resulting in a smooth, glossy surface on the fabric. Usually the fabric is first treated with resin, wax, starch or other substances then calendered.

Glen Plaid ( also called glen urquhart) a popular Scottish district check made of elements of houndstooth and guard's check often with a fine line overplaid in a contrasting color.

Greige: fabric that has not been bleached, dyed or finished after production. If woven sometimes called loomstate.

Grenadine: a leno weave fabric with high twist yarns often with woven in stripes, checks or other patterns . Used for dresses, blouses curtains.

Grosgrain: a firm, tightly woven fabric with a heavy, pronounced, crosswise rib. Used for neckties, millinery, trim . The term often describes ribbon but may be a full width fabric as well.

Grospoint: A durable, uncut loop pile fabric used mainly for upholstery.

Guipure lace: a needlepoint lace made with a heavy buttonhole stitch and with the pattern on a coarse mesh or held together with connecting threads.

Gunny; A strong, coarse, plain weave fabric usually of jute . Similar to burlap but heavier and coarser. Used for baling and sacks.

Hairy: refers to fabrics with a lot of protruding fibers on the surface.

Hammered satin: a satin fabric with an allover surface texture that looks like hammered metal.

Handkerchief Linen: a fine lightweight plain weave fabric of linen or a linen blend. Used in blouses, dresses

Hard: describing fabrics with a firm, coarse hand.

Harlequin: a design motif dominated by diamond shapes or checks in 3 or more contrasting colors as in a harlequin costume.

Harris tweed: a woolen tweed fabric hand woven on the Outer Hebrides islands off the coast of Scotland. (Harris is one of these islands) Genuine Harris tweeds are certified by the Harris Tweed Association.

Heat transfer printed: a method of printing fabric by transferring a design from a paper to fabric by passing them together through heated rollers or a heated press. Also called Sublistatic printing or sublimation printing.

Heather: see Melange/Heather

Herringbone: a broken twill weave in which the twill line reverses regularly forming zig zag v's. Also called fishbone.

Hessian: see Burlap/Hessian.

High count: refers to fabrics woven with a relatively high thread count, resulting in a dense, tight fabric.

High twist: refers to yarn that are manufactured with a relatively high number of turns per inch . This may be done to increase the yarn strength or to give the fabric a crepey texture or hand.

High/low: 1. pile fabrics that have variation in pile height 2 a corduroy with wales of 2 or more different widths.

Holland/Shadecloth: a plain weave fabric similar to sheeting with a stiff sometimes glazed finish . Often of linen or cotton. Frequently used for shades.

Hologram: a three dimensional effect produced with a laser that changes with the angle of view and reflects light in a striking way . Often printed on reflective material.

Homespun: A plain weave fabric loosely woven with coarse uneven yarns that look as if they were spun by hand.

Honan: a high quality, plain weave pongee fabric made with wild silk from Henan in eastern China.

Honeycomb: a pique fabric with a waffle or cellular appearance. May be woven or knit.

Hopsack: see Basket weave/Hopsack.

Houndstooth: a pointed broken check design . Most commonly a woven produced with contrasting yarns in groups or multiples of 4, woven in a 2x2 twill. Sometimes called dogstooth.

Huckaback: a soft toweling fabric with short, loosely twisted filling floats to aid absorption, and a birdseye or honeycomb surface texture . It is sometimes embroidered.