GLOSSARIO

Ikat: a method of tie dyeing yarn prior to weaving. May be in warp only (warp ikat), weft only (weft ikat), or both warp & weft (double ikat) .Results in a a blurred pattern effect.

Illusion: a very fine sheer net fabric usually of nylon or silk. Used for veils.

Imberline: a woven fabric with various colored stripes in the warp often separated by gold thread. Used in upholstery, drapery.

Indigo: a type of blue dyestuff originally obtained from the indigo plant but now produced synthetically. Used for denim.

Indigo dyed: refers to a fabric which has been piece dyed with indigo dye.

Indigo & color: refers to yarn dyed fabrics using a combinations of indigo dyed yarns and yarns of other colors together in the design.

Indigo & overprinted: refers to printing done on an indigo denim, indigo chambray, or indigo dyed fabric.

Intarsia: a knit fabric with an inlaid pattern in contrasting color, usually geometric. The design appears on one part of the fabric rather than all over as a jacquard. It is generally engineered to fall on a certain area of the garment.

Interfacing: a fabric, usually a nonwoven, that is meant to be fused or sewn to another to give it body and shape.

Interlock: a double face knit fabric with 1x1 rib on each side. Usually firm and closely knit.

Iridescent: a fabric with a changeable color effect depending on the angle of view and lighting. It is usually the result of weaving with one color in the warp and another in the weft.

Irish lace: Refers to any lace made in Ireland. Most often they are crochet or needlepoint laces.

Jacquard: A fabric with a complicated pattern woven or knit into it as part of its structure. For wovens a jacquard loom is used which controls each warp yarn separately, raising or lowering it as needed during weaving to create the design. For knits a jacquard knitting machine creates the design by controlling whether individual needles knit, tuck, or miss.

Jaspe: A woven fabric with a series of faint stripes formed by the arrangement of light, medium, and dark warp yarns or by twisting together 2 yarns of different colors . Used for drapery, upholstery, suitings.

Jersey: 1. Single knit fabric with an intermeshing of stitches in the same direction on the face and a series of semicircular loops on the back. Thus the 2 sides appear different. 2. a general term referring to any knit fabric without a distinct rib.

Kersey: A fulled, woven fabric, generally of wool or a wool blend, with a fine lustrous nap. Used for overcoats.

Kodel: a brand of polyester, trademark of the Eastman Chemical Company.

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Lame: A fabric woven or knit with metallic yarns . It is usually gold or silver in color . Used in evening wear.

Laminated: a compound fabric usually comprised of a continuous sheet of thermoplastic film such as polyurethane or PVC bonded to a base fabric with heat or adhesive.

Laser cut: The process of cutting a design into the fabric by using a narrow beam laser to vaporize the fabric.

Lawn: a thin, light, crisp, plain weave fabric usually of cotton, cotton bends or linen. More firm than batiste or voile but less firm than organdy.

Leno: refers to an open weave fabric. In a leno weave the warp yarns are arranged in pairs, twisting or interlocking around the filling yarn to prevent slippage and make the open weave stronger and more firm.

Lever lace: Lace made on a Leavers machine. The machine uses mechanically controlled bobbins and is controlled by a jacquard mechanism. They can produce fine delicate patterns that resemble handmade laces.

Limp: refers to a fabric that is very drapey and lacking in body.

Loose: refers to a fabric that is not tightly constructed and shifts easily.

Lurex brand: brand of metallic fiber and yarn of The Lurex Co.

Lycra brand: Dupont brand of spandex yarn.

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Madras: cotton fabric handwoven in the Madras region of India.

Madras plaid: Bright multicolored plaids characteristic of Indian Madras.

Maline: a fine hexagonal open mesh net similar to tulle. Used for veils millinery trim.

Marled: yarns made up of 2 different colors, produced by combining fiber strands (rovings) of 2 different colors, or twisting together 2 yarns of different colors, or by cross dyeing plied yarns of 2 different fibers.

Marocain: a woven crepe fabric with a wavy rib effect in the weft resulting from the use of high twist yarns. Used in women's dresses, suits.

Marquisette: fine lightweight open mesh fabric. Used for curtains, mosquito netting, trim for evening wear, or millinery.

Matelasse: a fancy double woven or compound fabric that has the appearance of being padded, puckered or quilted . It is usually woven on a jacquard loom. Used for upholstery , drapery, vests . Lighter weights are used for dresses and other apparel.

Matte Jersey: Tricot with a dull surface made with fine crepe yarn.

Mechanical stretch: fabrics that have stretch properties but no not use spandex or other stretch yarns. The stretch is usually created in the finishing process.

Mechlen lace: A bobbin lace characterized by delicate florals outlined with a silky thread.

Melange/Heather: a variation in tone or mottled look . May be done by mixing fibers or yarn of different colors together, printing of the top before spinning the yarn, or cross dyeing the fabric.

Melton: a heavily felted, tightly woven fabric with a sheared nap giving it a smooth surface. It is almost always of wool or a wool blend. Used mainly for coats but lighter weights may be used for other apparel.

Mercerized: A finishing process for cotton using caustic soda which may be applied at the yarn or fabric stage resulting in additional luster, improved strength and an improved ability to take dye.

Merino: refers to wool from the Merino sheep which produces a fine, strong elastic fiber of very high quality . It can be washed to a clean white color and has good felting and spinning characteristics.

Mesh: a general term for fabric with open spaces between the yarns. It may be knit , woven or knotted (net) in construction.

Metallic: A highly lustrous, reflective fabric that has the appearance of metal. May be coated or made from synthetic yarns in metallic colors.

Microfiber: Extremely fine synthetic fiber used to produce soft, lightweight fabrics . Microfiber is often defined as fibers of less than 1 denier per filament but the term is used loosely in the industry. May be polyester, nylon, acrylic, rayon or other fibers. Used for rainwear, outerwear and various other types of apparel.

Micromattique: Brand of polyester microfiber trademarked by Du Pont.

Milanese: a warp knit process resulting in a fabric with a fine rib on the face and a diamond effect on the back. Used for women's lingerie and other apparel.

Milled/Fulled: A method of compressing , shrinking and felting a fabric through the use of moisture heat and mechanical pressure. Usually done on wool and wool blends such as melton. The process often obscure the weave.

Mini check: A very small pattern of squares or rectangles . May be yarn dyed, printed, or woven into the fabric.

Mock leno: a woven fabric made on a dobby loom with an open mesh design that simulates a leno weave by interlacing and grouping the warp and weft yarns with spaces between the groups. Warp yarns are not paired as in a true leno weave.

Moire: a wavy watermark pattern produced by calendering 2 layers of fabric together or embossing with an engraved roller. This causes the embossed or crushed parts of the fabric to reflect light differently . It is often done on corded fabrics and is often used for upholstery and drapery.

Moleskin: a strong, heavy, woven fabric with a short, smooth nap produced by brushing and shearing the surface. Usually of cotton.

Monk's Cloth: a heavy, coarse, loosely woven fabric made in a basket weave . Used for drapery, upholstery and other home furnishings

Monotone: refers to a design in one color.

Moquette: a firm double woven pile fabric used mainly for upholstery . Pile may be cut , uncut or partially cut.

Moss crepe/Pebble crepe: A woven fabric with a characteristic grainy surface and often a spongy hand. Generally made with high twist yarn in a crepe weave. Used in women's suits, dresses etc.

Mossed: 1. a finish usually applied to synthetics which gives the fabric surface an irregular, mottled appearance . 2. A fibrous texture on the surface of felted woolen fabrics.

Mousseline: general term for crisp, lightweight, semi-opaque fabrics . May be made from a variety of fibers.

Mull: soft, thin, plain weave fabric usually of cotton or silk.

Muslin: a large group of plain weave cotton or cotton blend fabrics. They cover a variety of weights from light, fine sheers to heavier sheetings. Used in interfacings, dresses, shirts, sheets, furniture covers, and many other applications

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